Un poco de la historia del zapato a través de los continentes

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Las costumbres de cada pueblo en relación a sus zapatos, botas, botines, sandalias, mocasines, etc. Los señalan con ciertas características de vida o de uso. Por ejemplo, los campesinos en Albania echan sal en sus zapatos por la mañana para así tener buena suerte durante el día. En los campos de Irlanda entierran los zapatos viejos de un niño que se ha perdido, para encontrarlo. En Haití se espolvorea harina dentro de los zapatos para protegerse de las prácticas dañinas del vudú. En Afganistán usan con frecuencia los zapatos de los familiares difuntos que admiraban, con la esperanza de heredar las virtudes de los seres queridos. En algunas zonas de Irán e Irak, después del compromiso, el pretendiente envía zapatos a la novia, a la suegra y a las cuñadas. En México, los choferes de microbuses y taxis cuelgan un zapato de niño (sobre todo del primogénito), en el espejo retrovisor de su transporte, para obtener buena suerte. Una antigua tradición sueca, consiste en que la novia lleve monedas en los zapatos antes de ir a la iglesia. Una moneda de plata de su padre se coloca en el zapato izquierdo, mientras que una moneda de oro de su madre estará en su zapato derecho. Con ello desean a su hija felicidad en el matrimonio.

El calzado más antiguo que se conoce es un par de sandalias fabricadas con paja trenzada, y que provienen de Egipto. En los tiempos bíblicos se entregaba una sandalia como un signo de juramento o para cerrar un contrato.

Las primeras sandalias de cuero y adornos hechos de oro fueron halladas en el baño del faraón Tutankamón.

En Grecia, algunas personas van con sus zapatos más viejos durante las fiestas navideñas para prevenir las desgracias en el año venidero.

 

AMÉRICA

Las primeras evidencias del calzado en el hemisferio occidental provienen de la cultura anassazi (procedente de los territorios que ahora ocupan Utah, Colorado y Nuevo México. El material que usaban para cubrirse los pies era la fibra de la hoja de yuca. La cultura asante llegó al poder a principios del siglo XVIII y durante doscientos años dominó el comercio del oro (que se encontraba en minas dentro de su territorio). Dicta la tradición asante que los pies del líder no han de tocar el suelo. A tal fin, éste se hace acompañar de varios “porta-sandalias”.

MÉXICO

El zapato mexicano tiene su origen en los hombres primitivos que cruzaron el estrecho de Behring durante la última era glacial. Siglos más tarde, en la época prehispánica, los aztecas diseñaron el cactli, que era una especie de sandalia que dejaba descubierto el dorso del pie, únicamente cubriendo el talón, y llevaba unas correas que sujetaban la suela. Estaba fabricada con cuero de ciervo y piel de jaguar, y todo ello estaba cosido con hilo de ixtle, fibra muy resistente extraída del maguey. Los mexicas diferenciaban el estrato social según el atuendo de las personas, por lo que el cactli sólo era usado por emperadores, sacerdotes, guerreros y comerciantes de alto rango, mientras que las mujeres y los macehuales iban descalzos. En la sociedad azteca, los macehualli (o macehualtin, en plural) eran la clase social que estaba por encima de los esclavos, nada más, y jerárquicamente estaban por debajo de los pīpiltin o nobles.

El emperador Moctezuma era famoso por el lujo con que vestía tanto en su ropa como su calzado. Las crónicas señalan que en su primer encuentro con Cortés, el emperador azteca usó una especie de cactli con suelas de oro y piedras preciosas. Sus súbditos avanzaban por delante barriendo el suelo por donde pasaba y poniéndole mantas para que no pisara la tierra.

Con los primeros españoles llegaron ganaderos, curtidores y zapateros que establecieron sus talleres en la Nueva España. Al cactli azteca se le incorporan algunas técnicas españolas y se convierte en el huarache. El botín de charro y la bota norteña también son resultados del mestizaje cultural. Cuero, telas y madera se usaron para climas fríos como los de Europa, mientras que las fibras de ixtle resultaban ideales para las altas temperaturas de Mesoamérica.

Durante esa época, los secretos del oficio fueron celosamente guardados, e incluso hubo ordenanzas del virrey para castigar a quien los divulgara. En la ciudad de México se adoptó la organización gremial que se practicaba en Europa desde la edad media, la cual reunía en grupos a las personas que tenían el mismo oficio. Los únicos que podían vender zapatos eran los que pertenecían al gremio, pues era una forma de controlar la calidad del calzado.

Durante la segunda mitad del siglo XVI y durante casi todo el XVII, durante esta época la mayor parte de la población indígena no usaba zapatos, mientras que los pobladores negros y mulatos utilizaban calzado muy rudimentario. La moda del zapato en México, que era un deleite únicamente de las clases adineradas, fue evolucionando a medida que avanzaba en Europa. El desarrollo mercantil con Asia a finales del siglo XVII incorporó la seda y el raso al calzado. La moda del zapato masculino tuvo dos estilos: el borceguí negro con hebilla de plata y las botas de montar. Los zapatos femeninos eran más variados, solían ser de piel o terciopelo negro, con tacón pequeño y bordados con hilos de oro y plata. El siglo XVIII y el rococó añadieron la pedrería y la sofisticación en el bordado. A finales de este siglo, la moda barroca se sustituyó por la neoclásica surgida del imperio napoleónico. Los zapatos femeninos eran sin tacón y de seda o cabritilla blanca. Los hombres usaban altísimas botas de charol negro como las que usaba el emperador. Así calzaron personajes de nuestra historia como Agustín de Iturbide o Guadalupe Victoria. Antes del 1800, los zapatos para el pie izquierdo y derecho eran iguales.

 

GUATEMALA

Xajab es la palabra del idioma kaqchikel que equivale en castellano a zapato, sandalia, o “caite”. Esta última palabra, viene del vocablo nahuatl “cactli”, según indica Adrián Recinos en su traducción del Popol Vuh, libro sagrado de los quichés.

Independientemente de la forma en que esta palabra haya evolucionado, no se conoce exactamente su origen. Lo cierto es que los diseños de caites que calzan los indígenas de Guatemala forman parte de una tradición milenaria relacionada con dignatarios y gobernantes mayas de hace milenios.

Vestigios de esta tradición perviven en los habitantes de San Juan Atitán, Huehuetenango, en donde hombres y mujeres utilizan caites fabricados con piel de venado, con un doblez en la parte posterior, a manera de talón protector”.

Esta modalidad de calzado no difiere mucho de las sandalias que llevan diversos personajes representados en estelas, murales y otros vasos pintados del Período Clásico, entre los años 250 a 900 después de Cristo.

Las sandalias que usaban las elites eran confeccionadas con piel de jaguar, un material muy apreciado, especialmente entre los guerreros.

De las manos del artesano surgen los caites, hacen nudos, clavan y doblan las puntas. La plantilla y los cinchos son de cuero comprado en Huehuetenango, y actualmente, la suela es de pequeños pliegos de hule proveniente de neumáticos.

No se usa pegamento. Todas las piezas van unidas por medio de clavos o tachuelas. Para modelar los cinchos del caite hay que mojarlos y martillarlos. El último ajuste no está en las manos del artesano, sino en el pie del comprador.

Históricamente, cuando Guatemala era el nombre de un país que ocupaba todo lo que ahora es Centro América, existieron unos zapatos que se pusieron de moda llamados “chapines”. Los que empezaron a usarlos fueron los de la capital, los zapatos eran algo incómodos para caminar, pero eso no era excusa para no estar a la moda. La gente fuera de la capital se burlaba de los “chapines” por usar esos zapatos tan incómodos. La moda siempre ha sido igual, no importa edad sexo o religión, todos querían usar estos zapatos, incluso los niños pero a estos les era más notoria la incomodidad de usarlos y por eso “cojeaban” al caminar; por eso a los niños de Guatemala se les dice “patojos” por ser los que caminan con la “pata-coja”.

 

ASIA

EGIPTO

El material arqueológico de Egipto, correspondiente al período que se extendiera entre el año 3.500 y el 31 a.C. se halló muy bien conservado debido al clima seco del desierto. Se conservaron en buen estado pequeñas estatuas de arcilla que representan hombres vistiendo solamente cubre/genitales y sandalias. Las sandalias egipcias llevaban suela de madera, cuero, papiro, junco u hojas de palmera trenzada, a veces tapizadas de tela. Los sacerdotes debían usar exclusivamente sandalias hechas con fibras de papiro. Los faraones usaban suntuosas sandalias con la punta elevada hacia el empeine, en la suela llevaban la representación artística de los enemigos vencidos, cuyo contenido simbólico, apoyado en la magia, era aplastarlos una vez más, a cada paso.

Los egipcios acostumbraban a enterrar a sus muertos con zapatos, para que no anduvieran descalzos en el más allá. En las suelas de los zapatos de los faraones y miembros más prominentes de la sociedad pueden hallarse representaciones de esclavos y enemigos. El significado de dichas inscripciones es literal: no sacarles el pie de encima; mantenerlos bajo sus zapatos.Todo el calzado egipcio era chato, excepto el de los carniceros, que deseaban elevar sus pies del piso donde corría la sangre de los animales sacrificados.

 

CHINA

Por miles de años, las jóvenes mujeres chinas quienes querían verse más hermosas hacían una práctica llamada atadura de pies. Esta práctica comenzó aproximadamente en siglo décimo y terminó en el siglo veinte, pero hasta el día de hoy se habla de ella por lo extraño que es esto para el mundo occidental. Muchos estudiosos aseguran que este doloroso procedimiento lo hacían las mujeres para intentar alcanzar la anhelada belleza. Esta atadura de pies en principio era hecha en niñas de seis años o más jóvenes que pertenecían a las partes más ricas de China, pero después se convirtió en algo tan popular que sólo las mujeres en las áreas más pobres o aquellas que trabajaban en los campos no podían hacer. La razón era que esos trabajos requerían el buen funcionamiento de los pies y este procedimiento hacía que el simple hecho de caminar fuera difícil. El procedimiento era que los pies de estas niñas pequeñas eran envueltos en apretadas bandas para que no crecieran y se desarrollaran normalmente, en su lugar los huesos se fracturaban y esa parte se deformaba totalmente, evitando que el pie creciera más allá de los diez o quince centímetros. Cuando esa mujer alcanzaba la adultez sus pies permanecían muy pequeños, pero sufrían de parálisis, atrofia muscular e infecciones.

En aquellas épocas, que no son tan lejanas, ya que esta costumbre se mantuvo hasta el siglo pasado, los pies pequeños en las mujeres eran considerados como algo hermoso e incluso sensual. Las mujeres con esta clase de pies eran vistas como muy atractivas y misteriosas, además de que los pies deformados eran un símbolo de riqueza, en especial porque las mujeres con esta deformidad no podían ejercer trabajo alguno. Sin embargo, ese atractivo se mantenía siempre y cuando los pies estuvieran escondidos en sus zapatos, porque cuando se dejaban al descubierto mostraban su deformidades y ya no eran tan atractivos. Muchas mujeres, sin embargo, se resistían a semejante tortura, que incluía incluso romperse los dedos de los pies y cortarse las plantas para hacer que se doblaran más fácil, y se quitaron las bandas tiempo antes de que se les alcanzaran a deformar los pies totalmente. Se estimaba que el tamaño ideal en el pie de una mujer era “san zu” (7.62cms). Los pies que alcanzaban ese tamaño eran denominados “sin lian”: lotos dorados.

Los monjes budistas usan calzado que refleja la cultura de donde provienen. Las botas blancas con la cinta amarilla pertenecieron a Shi Suxi, abad del templo de Shaolín. (Le fueron entregadas en su cumpleaños 68). Este tipo de zapatos era reservado para ocasiones especiales. Para el día a día, usaban calzado gris o negro. La cinta quizá era una referencia al color azafrán de su vestimenta. “Shi Suxi” de la 30 generación del Templo Shaolin, es el nombre que significa “siempre feliz”.

Una Leyenda china dice que en una ocasión Huang Ti fue a las montañas k’ung Tung y conoció al sabio inmortal Kuang Cheng-tze. Este maestro le aconsejó que para preservar la vida, se precaviera de estimular sus pasiones o incitar sus emociones sin pensar, y que con frecuencia se sentara en silencio para apaciguar su mente. Al seguir su consejo y practicar sus ejercicios, Huang Ti llevó una vida sorprendente. Su reinado duró 100 años. Tuvo más de 100 esposas.

Con el tiempo se volvió inmortal y viajo al cielo sobre el lomo de un dragón. Cuando la gente vio que se iba, le pidieron que se quedara. Huang Ti, como último regalo a su pueblo, dejó caer sus zapatos dejando un gran hueco al caer. Se dice que en la provincia Shanxi aún existe una tumba donde estremeció la tierra con esos zapatos. Las actividades de Huang Ti fueron las precursoras de los métodos de la meditación taoísta y del ejercicio conocido como T’ai Chi Ch’uan. Sin embargo, estas prácticas no se difundieron en la época de Huang Ti. El desarrollo total del taoísmo no se llevó a cabo sino mucho después. 

INDIA

Entre los hábitos del pueblo indio, los conceptos religiosos y políticos relativos a los pies y a los zapatos son complejos y singulares. El calzado está  tan cargado de significado ritual, simbólico y alegórico,  que su valor utilitario ocupa un  segundo plano. Los pies,  por ser la parte del cuerpo que apoya en el suelo,  pueden implicar  dignificación o humillación. Se veneran cuando  permiten tener  contacto directo con las energías generadoras de la madre tierra y  se desprecian cuando  producen la contaminación del cuerpo, siendo considerados  impuros y olorosos. Son dignos de veneración los pies de los ancianos,  las autoridades religiosas y las deidades.  Se adornan y enjoyan los pies femeninos, verdaderos iconos de amor y erotismo. El cuidado  y la dedicación se expresan masajeando  y acariciando los pies del ser amado.

La acción de posar el pie sobre la cabeza de su amante es una de las mayores demostraciones de amor que puede ofrecer una mujer.

Pâda: pie (sustantivo masculino); ka: diminuto, pequeño. Paduka: Sandalia,  calzado abierto, fresco, apropiado para el clima de India central, que mantiene la planta del pie separada del suelo recalentado por el sol. También conocidas como khadaun, o kharawan. Una paduka es una suela de madera con un botón que se coloca entre el dedo gordo y el segundo dedo del pie.

Realizadas con  materiales resistentes y durables, protegen el pie contra rocas y espinas especialmente en las zonas rurales. La  plataforma se eleva del piso a través de soportes  en la puntera y el talón,  con una suerte de perilla entre el dedo grande y el segundo. El simbolismo del calzado posee una intensa carga en la India. La paduka, por ejemplo, toma a menudo la forma de objetos religiosos, como el pez.

El calzado puede también representar a la  divinidad. En el Ramanayana, por ejemplo,
el hermano de Rama, coloca  las padukas del príncipe exiliado sobre el trono,
como sustituto simbólico del soberano.  Las padukas son símbolos también de la santidad de gurúes y de hombres santos

Ha sido usado por  gurúes -maestros espirituales-, por  mendicantes  y por otros hombres santos para ocasiones especiales desde hace más de 5 mil años. Los soportes que elevan esa base del suelo reflejan el principio de  no-violencia, porque reducen al mínimo el riesgo de aplastar insectos y  vegetación.

El pueblo podía utilizar  padukas de madera sencilla, en cambio  los de  maderas
especialmente valiosas  como teca fina, ébano y sándalo, con incrustaciones de marfil o metal, denotaban el alto rango de su portador.  En ocasiones  importantes como las bodas y las celebraciones rituales de veneración se han utilizado  padukas realizadas en materiales preciosos. Las de marfil  son propias de los hombres santos.

En el hinduismo, la figura del pez por lo general está relacionada a Vishnú. De lo que se desprende que estas sandalias (paduka) pudieron haber tenido significación religiosa. Estos ejemplos de “calzado aristocrático” todavía se estilan en bodas y ocasiones especiales.

Mojaris y Juttis en el norte y centro de la India: Los juttis eran zapatos cerrados hechos de cuero para todos los usos y de tejidos finos y sedas para ocasiones especiales y con la punta exageradamente hacia arriba; los mojaris eran similares pero hechos con materiales más ligeros y flexibles. Los altos dignatarios empleaban estos calzados que, en ocasiones, estaban enriquecidos por piedras preciosas (rubíes, diamantes, esmeraldas) que daban a estos zapatos o botines, un incalculable valor.

El calzado antiguo de la India, acabado en punta, lo utilizaban reyes y sacerdotes imitando los cuernos de la vaca sagrada. Cuanto más larga era la punta del zapato, más elevado era el rango social. Tanto se prolongó el extremo del zapato que hubo que determinar un límite, ya que llegó a medir más de un metro, dificultando enormemente el caminar. En el siglo XIV, la polaina poseía una punta afilada, que alcanzaba los 50 cm. de longitud. Para andar era necesario sujetarla a la media con una cadenita de oro o de plata.

Las Chappals. Este es un tipo de la sandalia simple de cuero, que proporciona una protección básica al pie contra las superficies calientes y el terreno áspero. Está hecha con suelas planas que se atan con correas que rodean la parte superior del pie y el dedo gordo.

Jutti: es un zapato usado por los hombres, mujeres y niños en toda la India. A menudo es hecho de cuero de la piel del búfalo, camellos o vacas. Los juttis también pueden cubrir todo el pie, como una zapatilla, y estar hechos a partir de otros productos textiles.

Khapusas.-  Son botas  pesadas que cubrían hasta las rodillas. Diseñadas para proteger de la nieve, las serpientes, las piedras, y el frío. Las khapusas fueron usadas en el norte de la India, especialmente en las montañas del Himalaya, en el siglo I d.C.

Se cree que fueron traídas a la India por extranjeros. Este tipo de botas se adapta muy bien a los climas frios, pero se cree que era de poco uso por los indios, y los más acostumbrados a usarlos eran los extranjeros que llegaban por esas escarpadas zonas.

 JAPÓN

Es costumbre japonesa quitarse los zapatos antes de pisar el piso de las casas, que generalmente son de madera fuerte.

Al entrar en una casa japonesa lo primero que nos encontramos es un pequeño recibidor llamado genkan cuyo suelo no es ni de tatami ni de parquet, sino de materiales fáciles de limpiar como el gres o piedra. El genkan está un escalón por debajo del resto de la casa y es justo ahí donde nos quitamos y guardamos los zapatos.

Para estar por casa podemos ir descalzos (con o sin calcetines), aunque lo común es utilizar unas zapatillas de estar por casa llamadas surippa, que viene del inglés slipper (chinela, zapatilla, chancleta, pantufla). Muchas casas suelen tener varios pares de surippa para invitados aunque éstas suelen ser todas del mismo tamaño (o básicamente dos tamaños, para chicos y para chicas).

Al entrar al baño encontraremos unas zapatillas especiales llamadas toire surippa. Así, tendremos que dejar nuestras zapatillas de estar por casa fuera y entrar en el baño con las zapatillas exclusivas del baño. Si vamos descalzos por la casa, tampoco podremos entrar al baño descalzos, debemos ponernos las zapatillas específicas. Esto es porque el baño es una zona más “sucia” y así se controla que la posible suciedad del baño no salga al resto de la casa. 

PAÍSES MUSULMANES

Recordar siempre que si son huéspedes de un país musulmán, por ciertas tradiciones y costumbres son completamente diferentes a las suyas. Se necesita conocer algunas reglas elementales. Cosas que deben hacerse: Quitarse los zapatos cuando entren y salgan de un lugar donde en el exterior vean como están puestos los zapatos de otros.

Las babuchas, también conocidas como “pantuflas”, comenzaron a utilizarse en el siglo XII por los moros. Moro es el término que históricamente se ha utilizado en España para designar a la persona de religión islámica. La palabra moro procede de la latina maurus, que designaba al habitante de la antigua provincia romana de Mauritania. El término «moro» se extendió para designar a los musulmanes en conjunto.

 

EUROPA

ESPAÑA

“Ahí le aprieta el zapato”: La expresión ha sido sacada de un simpático cuento castellano protagonizado por un cura y un zapatero. Este último, muy apesadumbrado, fue a visitar al párroco para contarle que quería separarse de su mujer. En un intento de disuadirlo, el cura comenzó a relatarle las cualidades de su esposa: “Es bella, es buena cocinera, es una cristiana modelo…” Entonces, el zapatero mostró sus zapatos al cura, y le dijo: ¿Qué le parece este par? El párroco respondió: “Me parecen unos hermosos zapatos, hechos con una piel muy buena y parecen cómodos”. Y el artesano replicó: “Así es, padre, pero usted no puede saber dónde me aprietan”. La frase ha quedado para ser utilizada cuando se descubre el punto débil de una persona, o algo que le molesta o duele sobremanera.

Un dicho muy parecido a éste es “yo sé dónde me aprieta el zapato” y proviene de una anécdota que cuenta Plutarco en sus Vidas Paralelas. El filósofo griego cuenta que un patriarca romano tenía por esposa a una hermosa y fiel dama, y, sin embargo, la repudió. Los amigos, que no daban crédito a la decisión del patriarca, reprobaron su postura, pero él les contestó lo siguiente: “¿Veis mi calzado? ¿Habéis visto otro mejor trabajo, ni más elegante? Sin embargo, yo sé en dónde me aprieta el zapato y me lastima el pie”.

FRANCIA
Los primeros zapatos vistos en la Europa moderna fueron utilizados en las cortes francesas entre los siglos XIII y XIV. Eran tan pesados e incómodos que originaban fuertes dolores en los tobillos. En esta época empiezan a ser los personajes públicos los que marcarán la moda. Godofredo de Plantagenet calzaba polainas para disimular una excrecencia en la punta del pie. Pero si en el Medievo eran los monarcas los que marcaban el ritmo de la moda, en el siglo XVIII un acontecimiento será el referente para el zapato: la Revolución Francesa. Se buscaba un zapato cómodo. De esta forma el tacón cede su paso al zapato plano, a los escarpines estrechos y a las sandalias de tiras enlazadas (reminiscencias de la Roma antigua).

Luis XIV. El Rey Sol

Realmente preocupado por su imagen, no podía pasar por delante de un espejo sin mirarse en él, Luis XIV no sólo siguió las tendencias de la moda, sino que dada su enorme influencia, impuso algunas de sus costumbres en el vestir: enormes pelucas de pelo natural, mangas adornadas de ricos encajes venecianos y, cómo no, sus famosos zapatos de tacón alto. Zapatos exquisitos y únicos elaborados siempre por su zapatero personal, el francés Nicholas Lestage. Un artesano al que dio precisas instrucciones: refinados, aunque adornados con vistosos lazos, brocados y piedras preciosas; suelas de color rojo; tacones con una pequeña curvatura; bordados en plata con escenas de batallas.

Todo un derroche de imaginación y sofisticación. Hasta tal punto el Rey era fanático de sus nuevos zapatos que, en parte, para hacer constatar su supremacía; prohibió llevar el exclusivo modelo al resto de la corte y aquel que le desobedeciera sería castigado con la pena de muerte.

Luis XIV lució tacones para disimular su corta estatura. Y revolucionó la moda del calzado. De hecho, actualmente siguen dando que hablar los zapatos del Rey Sol. Christian Louboutin, una figura de mención obligada a lo que a diseños de zapatos se refiere, confiesa: “La estatua de Luis XIV lleva unos de mis zapatos preferidos: una especie de sandalia retrabajada”. Y, aún hoy, la mujer del siglo XXI continúa cayendo rendida ante el encanto del tacón conocido como Luis XIV.

Se dice popularmente que la palabra sabotaje se originó de la palabra francesa sabot. En Francia los zuecos (zapatos de madera) se llaman sabots y se dice que en cierta ocasión, los obreros de algunas fábricas usaron sus sabots para inutilizar la maquinaria, y así mostrar su desacuerdo con los dueños. Es decir, sabotearon las máquinas.

La palabra también tiene otra relación. En la época industrial los trabajadores usaban los sabots como calzado, que les hacía caminar ineficientemente. De ahí que la ineficiencia organizada se denomine como sabotaje.

Casa de Valois, rama de la Dinastía de los Capetos que reinó en Francia entre los años 1328 y 1589 durante tres periodos distintos: Los Valois directos (1328-1498), los Valois-Orléans (o segunda Casa de Orleáns) 1498-1515 y los Valois-Angulema (o Valois-Orleáns-Angulema) 1515-1589. Para dar un toque muy especial de su dinastía, confeccionaron un zapato desmesuradamente ancho aparte de corto, media 33 cm. en sentido transversal. En forma de pala.

 

GRECIA

Las pieles se curtían con alumbre y eran muy costosas, con grasa de cerdo o con aceite les daban flexibilidad. Usaban extractos derivados de vegetales -coníferas, raíces y frutas de acacia y corteza de roble- para, mediante el tanino, teñirlas. Muy a menudo los mismos zapateros curtían el cuero, pero también existían curtiembres y el oficio del curtidor, debido a los olores desagradables que emanaban de las instalaciones, no gozaba de prestigio.

En Grecia el calzado más común entre los hombres era unas abarcas de piel de buey ajustado al tobillo mediante cuerdas entrelazadas, en los estratos sociales más elevados se usaban sandalias más o menos lujosas y luego, el borceguí y la bota. Las mujeres usaban una especie de zapatilla que cubría solo los dedos y la parte anterior del pie, las sandalias griegas correspondían a la solea romana, que usaban los hombres y mujeres en sus hogares como los calceus, que cubrían todo el pie.

Los griegos usaron la sandalia de cuero y la bota masculina hasta la pantorrilla con aplicaciones de metal, usando modelos diferentes para el pie izquierdo y derecho. A partir del año 600 a.C., las mujeres griegas de la clase alta adoptaron un calzado de cuero similar, ajustado al pie, y los colores de moda eran el blanco y el rojo. En los tiempos más antiguos, aún los militares, iban descalzos y sólo en períodos posteriores comenzaron a emplear zapatos, aunque permanecieron descalzos entre las paredes domésticas. Los primeros zapatos que usaron fueron con una suela de cuero, de madera o de fibra vegetal asegurada al pie por medio de correas. El Krepidoi, llevado por ambos sexos para viajar con mal tiempo y para hacer largos tramos en condiciones difíciles, los femeninos eran más flexibles, podían colorearse, y tener plataforma de corcho para ganar algún centímetro en estatura. La Krepis, disponible únicamente para los hombres libres, con la lengüeta tallada. El Embádes era una bota empleada por hombres y mujeres y el tomaia era completamente cerrado. Los zapatos femeninos podían decorarse de aplicaciones en metal y colorear incluso en púrpura. El Ninfides era un zapato blanco decorado. Había también un zapato para soldados, más pesado para recorrer terrenos accidentados: Koila upodémata con clavos en la suela.

El Endromides era una bota masculina que llegaba hasta media pierna, mientras que el Akatioi era un zapato con punta, probablemente de origen hitita. El Kothornoi teatrali o conturno, de origen oriental , tenía una gruesa suela de cuero y fue creado por los griegos para representar en teatro la tragedia y darle altura al actor, diferenciándolo del coro y dando proporción a su figura en relación al tamaño bastante considerable de las máscaras. Los protagonistas cómicos, en cambio, usaban el Embádes. Los jinetes empleaban botas con la espuela. Jenofonte nos informa de que los zapateros cosían las distintas partes del calzado con tendones animales y que seguían un procedimiento estandarizado en el montaje de los zapatos. Los Karbatinai eran zapatos sencillos, hechos con una pieza única con orificios en la parte del borde por donde pasaban correas que al ajustarse ceñían el pie. Estos zapatos eran tan simples que podrían ser elaborados fácilmente.

INGLATERRA

La padronización de la numeración es de origen inglés. El rey Eduardo (1272 –1307) fue quien uniformizó las medidas. La numeración del calzado fue un hecho que se suscitó a partir de la revolución industrial, lo que también trajo consigo las máquinas para la confección de este artículo de uso diario dando inicios de esta manera a la industria del calzado.

Enrique IV de Inglaterra (Castillo de Bolingbroke, 3 de abril de 1367Abadía de Westminster, 20 de marzo de 1413), rey de Inglaterra de 1399 a 1413. En tiempos de Enrique IV, el pie tenía que ser más pequeño que el zapato, las personas elegantes debían permanecer una hora con los pies en agua helada antes de enfundarse las botas. Las hermanastras de Cenicienta no tuvieron suficiente tiempo los pies en agua helada, por lo cual sus pies no encogieron lo suficiente para poderlos calzar en la zapatilla encantada.

El 1463, el rey Eduardo IV de Inglaterra proclamó un edicto que limitaba el largo de la punta del calzado; este debía corresponder con el estatus social y los bienes del portador. Durante el reinado de Enrique VIII, se pasó de los zapatos puntiagudos a los de punta ancha. La figura del monarca, quien gustaba de la buena comida, marcó la pauta en el cambio de la moda.

La primera referencia conocida de la manufactura del calzado en Inglaterra es de 1642, cuando Thomas Penddlton proyectó 4000 pares de zapatos y 600 pares de botas para el ejército. Los movimientos militares de esta época iniciaron una demanda sustancial de botas y calzados.

El tacón apareció a finales del siglo XVI y finales del XVII. La primera bota de damas fue diseñada para la reina Victoria en 1840.

ROMA

En Roma el calzado indicaba la clase social y, los cónsules por ejemplo usaban zapatos blancos, los senadores zapatos marrones prendidos por cuatro cintas negras de cuero atadas con dos nudos, y el calzado tradicional de las legiones eran los botines que descubrían los dedos.

La “caliga” era un tipo de sandalia usada por los soldados y oficiales del ejército romano. El emperador Cayo Julio César Augusto Germánico, las llevaba de niño. Este señor pasaría a la historia con su más renombrado apodo: Calígula que significa “botas pequeñas”.

Los pequeños zapatos hallados en Vindolanda, una fortaleza romana en el norte de Gran Bretaña, revelan que las familias eran parte de la vida militar romana entre los siglos I y IV d. C. Los zapatos de los niños romanos mostraban su estatus social.

 

PAÍSES BAJOS

La Fiesta de San Nicolás (en neerlandés: Sinterklaas) se celebra cada 5 de diciembre en los Países Bajos, y el 6 de diciembre en Bélgica y en algunas antiguas colonias neerlandesas. En menor medida se celebra también en Luxemburgo (como Kleeschen), Austria, Suiza, Alemania, Polonia y en la República Checa (como Mikuláš). La figura central de la fiesta es san Nicolás (en neerlandés: Sint-Nicolaas, de donde se deriva la forma popular Sinterklaas), un personaje legendario que trae regalos a los niños el día de la fiesta. Según la tradición, Sinterklaas viene de España, y llega a los Países Bajos en un barco de vapor, con un caballo blanco y acompañado de un ayudante de raza negra llamado Zwarte Piet (Pedrito el Negro en neerlandés).

El mito se basa fundamentalmente en la figura de San Nicolás de Bari (que fue obispo de Mira, en la actual Turquía, en el siglo IV. Sinterklaas monta un caballo blanco sobre los tejados de las casas, llevando sus símbolos episcopales: una capa roja, una mitra y un cayado dorado. Originalmente la figura de San Nicolás fue reverenciada solamente en el Este. Sólo a partir del siglo XIII se convirtió el día de su santo en una festividad reconocida. Ya en aquel tiempo existía en Utrecht la costumbre de llenar los zapatos de cuatro niños pobres con monedas. En los Países Bajos existe la costumbre de “poner el zapato” desde el siglo XV. En aquellos tiempos se ponía el zapato el 5 de diciembre en la iglesia, y lo obtenido con las dádivas de los ciudadanos más ricos se repartía entre las familias pobres el 6 de diciembre, día oficial de la muerte de San Nicolás.

Ya en el siglo XVI, Sinterklaas se convirtió en una festividad familiar, se impuso la costumbre de poner los zapatos junto a la chimenea. Según la tradición, Sinterklaas (más bien su ayudante Zwarte Piet) baja por la chimenea de noche y coloca los regalos en los zapatos de los niños, generalmente dulces y juguetes. Esta tradición sigue manteniéndose viva.

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